Destiny

Last night we shared a beer and watched the sunset at Waimea with Andy Marr. While we sat on the very point that was once the sole domain of kings - and today is possibly the most expensive piece of real estate in Hawaii - we talked surfing, life and swell forecasts.

At one stage Andy looked into the distance, his eyes flashed crystal blue and he asked if we had seen the forecasts for next week. “It’s a once in a generation swell at the moment,” he said, “Yes, it’s going to be very, very big.”

We checked the charts when we got home. At the moment they are calling 5 metres at 16 seconds for next Saturday, and the animations show a swell system resembling a multi coloured tumour sliding and mutating it’s way across the Pacific from the Arctic, before it engorges the Hawaiian Islands.

It’s a giddy feeling knowing that destiny is coming for you, seeing fate so far away and then feeling it coming closer, minute by minute.

Different people react in different ways. Andy wakes up in the dark and stares into the blackness on the point at Waimea, willing it to arrive. Ant is pacing the floor wondering what boards he’ll need for the contest at Sunset, wondering if he has what it takes. The Mad Scientist is going down Shark’s Cove to swim in the underwater caves, and hold his breath, to be prepared for what may happen.

When you’re on the North Shore, and you know that this time next week you could be a hero, you could be safe on shore or you could be dead, how would you spend your time?

Would you wait for it or run from it? Would you let if invade your sleep, or would you prepare methodically? Would you watch your future grow and change and morph as it travels to your doorstep?

Could you take your eyes off your date with destiny?