They aren't a couple, they're just mates. When we connected they were very hungover mates, and drew me some sketchy maps of the 7 mile stretch of Oahu that we know as the North Shore, complete with landmarks like: pot hole, and tree. Their advice was simple: surf the close outs, that way you'll get lots of waves. I told them I was more interested in makeable barrels, and they told me that if I wake up early enough the chances that I can surf with only 40 guys are good, but the waves are worse in the morning. Then one of them spilled orange juice on the map and I had to mop it with a serviette, so now it's kinda 3D. They were American, so we high fived, and I left.
I was excited to have a 3D map, but a little disappointed with their lack of promises of empty surf, so I mailed a photographer mate who used to live in Hawaii. Unfortunately he totally agreed with them, but thankfully he didn't even attempt a high five... even though he did send me a Skype smiley emoticon.
Here's what he said:
"You are likely to find the crowds suffocating, both surfers and photographers - but Hawaii is like any other location in that a long period of crap conditions means it's very crowded when waves and good conditions do arrive. If the swell lingers for a few days, the intensity level drops a bit, and that's when you may be able to jockey yourself into a good position at Backdoor.
Locals can be defensive and aggressive - so don't be the sort who projects a lot of ego and seeks confrontation, but if there is even a whiff of trouble, simply leave the scene. You can't win an argument with locals in Hawaii during the winter season, it doesn't matter if you are in the right or not, so don't even try. No way to know who is on ice or has a gun, so best to keep a low profile. With all the testosterone on display, disputes are settled with violence in the Polynesian fashion, not discussion and compromise.
Theft is a daily occurrence on the North Shore, so never, ever leave anything of value in a parked car - not even for a two-minute surf check.
Hawaii has an estimated 40 000 ice addicts on O'ahu alone, and they service their addiction by stealing anything and everything they can get to sell or trade for drugs. The North Shore has always been an area of high theft and drug use - I lived in Hawaii for 28 years, so I should know. The police have begun shooting career car thieves at shopping centres like Ala Moana and Pearlridge, but there are too many of them and not enough bullets."
Hawaii has an estimated 40 000 ice addicts on O'ahu alone, and they service their addiction by stealing anything and everything they can get to sell or trade for drugs. The North Shore has always been an area of high theft and drug use - I lived in Hawaii for 28 years, so I should know. The police have begun shooting career car thieves at shopping centres like Ala Moana and Pearlridge, but there are too many of them and not enough bullets."
But then he said some good things too like, "Let's hope it's a good season, with light trades and consistent swell - Surfline does a good forecast for the North Pacific, so there is lots of info around. If a big 1040 mb high pressure fills the eastern north pacific with strong trades for weeks and frequent showers with minimal groundswell - well, there's always shopping in town or a movie..."
And if you don't believe him about the shootings part, check this out: http://www.khon2.com/news/local/16885611.html
So what have I learned from all of this? Well, OJ 3D maps are mad sticky, high fives make me feel a bit uncomfortable - kind of like when Victor taps Bakkies on the ass - and people who lived on the North Shore seem to be pretty jaded by it. Still, I have a dream to chase and a theory to prove. Plus it all just kind of sounds like your average Saturday morning at North Beach anyway... North Beach at 15 feet and grinding that is.